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Beyond Cosmetics: Evaluating Topical Chemical Exposure and Its Impact on Human Health
Conference
Session 2: Exposome impact on Skin & Hair
Day 1
2:10 pm
Exposure to chemicals is a big concern for human health. Among all routes of exposure to chemical, topical route is important with different exposure scenarios.
Level of absorption to chemical topically applied is usually done with skin absorption study using human skin. Using validated analytical method, the amount of chemical penetrating the skin is quantified. Knowing chemical toxicity, a risk assessment can be done. For consumer exposure to cosmetics, Sccs guidelines provided define protocol.
Guidelines for pesticides are also well described. Nevertheless, many other scenarios cannot be easily defined. What should be the scenario of non-occupational exposure to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in urban environment? How to evaluate a working day of a hairdresser submitted to repeated exposure?
Impact of the different experimental parameters of skin absorption studies on the level of chemical absorption and their consequences on risk assessment will be discussed.
Alternatives to in vitro human skin absorption study are possible to overcome such constraints. Monitoring the level of exposure can also be done through biomonitoring within plasma or urine. Of course, such monitoring can be done knowing metabolism profile. Thus, for Benzo[a]pyrene, the hydroxylated metabolite is quantified. Examples of biomonitoring of different chemicals topically applied will be presented.

Sébastien Grégoire
Freelance
Analytical chemist specialized in Mass Spectrometry, Sebastien Gregoire worked for Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Industry over 25 years. At L'Oreal, he was in charge of all aspects of Skin Bioavailability. He developed QSAR models dedicated to skin absorption, screening assay using reconstructed skin or synthetic membrane, in vivo protocol ... He supported also brands for revendication around questions related to skin absorption. He was representative of L'Oreal at Cosmetic Europe and participated to different programs (LRSS, ICCS). He is acting now as independent consultant.
Sebastien Gregoire Consulting was founded october 7th 2025. Based on its experience, Sebastien Gregoire PhD provides his advices and supports on all topics related to skin bioavailability from preliminary in silico evaluation to ultimate in vivo proof. Mass spectrometry became over the years the method of choice for bioanalytical work. He also supports any mass spectrometry development for qualitative and quantitative analytical work.
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