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Using AFM nanoscale biomarkers to monitor skin stress responses during exam periods
Short talk
Session 4: Skin & Brain Axis
Day 2
0:40 pm
Psychological stress can transiently perturb epidermal homeostasis through neuro-endocrine and inflammatory pathways, impacting hydration, desquamation, and barrier integrity. Here, we used an academic final-exam period as a real-life model of mild stress to track stress-responsive changes in corneocyte nanoscale morphology and to assess whether topical formulations can mitigate these effects. In a multi-week study with healthy student volunteers, corneocyte samples were collected longitudinally from treated sites (three cosmetic formulations) and matched untreated control areas. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) quantified nanoscale topography and extracted barrier-relevant descriptors.
During the exam period, untreated control sites showed a clear increase in the density of Circular Nano Objects (CNOs)—small nanoscale depressions previously associated with low Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and reduced barrier integrity—along with higher surface heterogeneity. These patterns are consistent with stress-driven alterations in corneocyte maturation and barrier cohesion. In contrast, treated areas exhibited reduced CNO density and improved roughness/homogeneity parameters, suggesting a partial attenuation of stress-associated barrier impairment.

Arthur Dervillez

Loretta
Arthur Dervillez is the founder and CEO of Loretta, a role he has held for the past year while
leading several R&D projects within the company. He has extensive experience in detecting
and analyzing biological properties for innovative cosmetic applications. With six years of
expertise in biophysical methods and team management, he brings both scientific depth and
strategic vision to the development of next-generation cosmetic analysis solutions.
Loretta is a specialized skin analysis laboratory dedicated to supporting cosmetic brands
in the scientific testing and validation of their products. The company partners with cosmetic
laboratories worldwide to deliver precise, actionable insights into skin performance and product
efficacy. Using high-speed Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM), its platform captures real-time,
high-resolution data from the surface of skin cells, enabling robust, non-invasive characterization
of key biophysical parameters. Analyses focus on critical indicators such as hydration levels,
barrier function integrity, and anti-aging factors, supporting evidence-based formulation and
quantifiable results. By bridging fundamental biophysics with applied cosmetology, Loretta helps transform complex skin data into clear scientific value for R&D teams and clinicians.
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